Visit by Lovende Molens (Living Mills)
The group visited this country for a tour of Essex and Suffolk Mills, arriving on the 7th April. The tour was organised by the Mills Section of the SPAB in return for the hospitality we received last September when we spent four days in Flanders with them.
Their first visit was to us in Upminster, where they were due to arrive at 1.30 pm. At 11.30 Sheila and I received a phone call from Franz , their leader, to say they were at the mill as they got on an earlier shuttle and the journey from Folkestone took much less time than anticipated. They had to wait until Simon Hudson arrived before continuing the tour, so had plenty of time to look at our mill and have their refreshments.
As they were early, Simon managed to arrange an unscheduled visit to Stock Windmill where Trevor and I joined them. We then followed them to Ipswich where we stayed overnight so that we could join them for dinner and visit the Suffolk mills with them.
Saturday started with a visit to Buttrums Mill at Woodbridge which is the most complete Whitmore and Binyon tower mill remaining. Built in 1836 it is six storeys high and is the last Suffolk windmill with four pairs of stones. It last worked in 1928 and is now maintained by Suffolk County Council. The fully shuttered sails still turn but it does not grind.
From Buttrums Mill we proceeded to Woodbridge Tide Mill which dates from the 18th century, although a mill was on this site in 1170, and has four pairs of stones, The mill worked tidally until 1957. Although restored in the 1970s with a new 20 foot wheel it is now again in need of repair. The 7.5 acre mill pond became a marina and there is now only a small reservoir which can power the mill for short periods only.
The next stop was at Wickham Market Water/Steam Mill. This was intended to be a photo stop only, but the crowd of enthusiasts rushed to the mill to the consternation of the owners who had to ask them to leave.
The water mill contains 18th century dates including one of 1701. It is complete, has a breast shot wheel, three pairs of overdriven stones and much auxiliary machinery. It ceased work by water power in the late sixties. The steam roller mill was erected in 1894 by Whitmore and Binyon but was gutted in the seventies. One set of its roller mills is preserved at the Museum of East Anglian Life Stowmarket.
After a 273 point turn by the Belgian driver who was not used to English country lanes, we set off for Saxtead Green Post Mill. Extensively restored in 1957-60 by the then Ministry of Works the mill is now English Heritage property. The work was done by local millwright, Jesse Wightman. It has mid 19th century Whitmore and Binyon machinery. Large windows fitted. After a fatal accident involving a child, much work with "Health and Safety" in mind was carried out. The mill is in excellent condition and sails can often be seen turning.
With Trevor and I following, we proceeded (somewhat behind schedule) to Thelnetham Tower Mill where we were met by Dave Pearce and Alan Wallis. Some flour was being produced, but as the mill had not run for quite a while it was of somewhat dubious quality. Built in 1819 the mill worked until 1924. It was restored to working order by volunteers in 1980-87 (I was involved in the early stages). The late Peter Dolman ran the mill regularly, but unfortunately there are not many volunteers able to spend time there.
The next port of call was Pakenham Water Mill which is maintained in restored condition by the Suffolk Preservation Society. A large oil engine is in situ. The working stones are powered by a breast shot wheel built by a Bury St. Edmunds foundry.
This is a very fine watermill, worthy of a visit and has a picnic area and a toilet. There is a fine view of the Windmill from the stone floor and that was where we went next.
Pakenham Tower Mill has been preserved in good order by the Bryant family and for many years was maintained by millwright, Amos Clarke. It has three pairs of stones, but these are now not used. The sails can often be seen turning from the A143 Bury St. Edmunds to Diss Main road.
Trevor left us at this point as he had a prior engagement that evening but I continued with the party to Drinkstone Mills. This is a long established and very important mill site having two mills, a cottage and a range of traditional buildings including an 1860s railway carriage.
The Post Mill contains much 16th century fabric. The main post has been tree ring dated to 1586-7. The mill was probably overhauled in 1689 (a date carved inside). The buck was extended and the roundhouse added in the 19th century. It was last worked by Wilfred Clover in the 1970s. First phase of repairs is in progress with a return to tail pole winding. It has head and tail stones and wooden wind shaft. Unfortunately the current restoration work is not being carried out by millwrights and much of the character of the mill has been lost. SPAB Mills Section is very concerned about the work on the mill and also plans for changes to the cottage.
The Smock Mill was built in late 18th century on the 16 sided base of a horse mill. Its sails were removed circa 1900 and it was fitted with engine driven machinery. The present oil engine, installed 1932 is in working order. From 1970s onwards weather proofing has been maintained by members of the Suffolk Mills Group.
The party then returned to Ipswich and I returned home.
Sunday saw visits to Abbey Mill Coggeshall and Mountnessing Windmill before the party returned to Folkestone for the shuttle.
Abbey Mill is a large water mill - over 100 feet long, on a mill site in use since 1230. It was for part of its history (1818-1840) a silk throwing mill. The absence of a lucam tends to indicate that its originally intended use was not corn milling. It was converted to a four pair Corn mill in 1840 by Clubb, millwright of Colchester, in 1840 and worked by the Appleyard family until 1947 then by Mr. Bonner until 1960 when it was bought by the late Roy Ward who returned it to good working order. The 12' 7" breast shot wheel (by Clubb) has an ingenious shutter which when there is a lot of water available allows it to flow over it onto the wheel or below it when there is less available. One pair of stones is equipped with "Bovill's Silent Feed" instead of the usual "horse" with its damsel and shoe. At some time in the nineteenth century auxiliary steam power was added. The engine's truncated chimney remains. Abbey mill is one of the county's most beautiful mills both in its architecture and in its setting. The present owners / caretakers are Richard and Petra Ward who are members of the Essex Mills Group
Mountnessing Post Mill is a straightforward post mill of the later type having two pairs of stones in the head rather than the earlier head and tail arrangement. Winding is by tail pole/ladder. It was built in 1807 and operated by members of the Agnis family from then until it ceased milling in the early 1930s. It was restored to working order by Vincent Pargeter.